From Archaeology to Academia: A Journey to Kyoto
In 1993, Eni came to Japan as a trainee with the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) to learn about cultural heritage restoration technology. As she applied her skills as an archaeologist, she fell in love with the city of Kyoto and dedicated herself to continued education within the city.
“When I first came here, I thought, ‘Oh, this is Kyoto!'” Eni recalls. “The atmosphere was rich in culture, making it feel like a place where I could both work and explore.” The stark contrast between the modern image of Tokyo, and Kyoto’s deep cultural roots and abundant nature surprised her.
“It’s funny, but Kyoto also reminds me a lot of Yogyakarta.”
This shared cultural foundation eased her transition to Kyoto life.
Navigating Cultural Currents: Similarities and Surprises
While surprised by the similarities between Japan’s “tatemae” (the Japanese term for the concept of one’s public face or stance) culture and Javanese values, Eni adapted to the new culture in her own way. For her, tatemae wasn’t a negative trait but a familiar one, aligning with Javanese teachings of consideration for others. This encounter with Japanese culture allowed her to experience that shared value in a very real and relatable way.
“Javanese people are also like that,” she explains. “Very old people would never show sadness. They would smile even if they were sad.”
“However, differences certainly exist,” Eni noted. “Unlike the typical open-door hospitality found in Indonesia, the Japanese custom requires calling ahead before visiting, even for close family members.”
The Power of Language: From Zero to Fluent
Eni arrived in Japan with zero Japanese proficiency, relying on English and a pocket dictionary. An intensive three-week JICA training program, however, proved transformative.
“After three weeks, I could already handle daily conversations,” she shares, recalling daily tests and presentations.
Although she arrived in Japan unable to speak Japanese, through self-study and hard work, she was able to write her master’s thesis entirely in Japanese. Through language, she also forged meaningful connections with others.
While romanization and English menus are more common in Japan now, Eni emphasizes even a little Japanese is crucial for building intimacy with locals. As she advises, “When you have that intimacy, you create special memories.”
Daily Life in Kyoto: Charms and Challenges
Eni wakes up to the sound of the bells of Kodai-ji Temple and living in harmony with nature. On the other hand, she also experiences the crowds and inconveniences typical of a tourist city. Through Eni’s eyes, you’ll get a glimpse into authentic daily life in Kyoto:
Her routines include daily walks, often with her husband, exploring mountains and rivers—a passion she’s had since her early days in Japan.
Indoors, her hobbies include photography, movies, books, and music. She particularly enjoys Japanese musical artists such as Kobukuro and Back Number, often translating their lyrics to enhance her comprehension.
Culinary Comforts and Community Connections in Kyoto
Despite her food restrictions as a Muslim, she makes it work by enjoying Kyoto’s cuisine and seeking out Indonesian ingredients. She particularly enjoys tofu (especially Kyoto’s famous varieties), vegetables, tempura, sashimi, and chawanmushi (a steamed egg dish).
Sourcing Indonesian ingredients can be a challenge, though online options and local mosques (which also sell spices) provide some access. She’s also found a community of friends, including one in Shiga Prefecture with a farm, who share Indonesian vegetables.
Initially, she connected with Indonesian students at Kyoto University and other international residents at the International Exchange Hall. She actively engaged with her local Japanese neighborhood association, participating in festivals and games, which helped her build relationships.
“But the most welcoming group?” Eni shared, “That was a mothers’ group I found through a children’s center after my son was born.” This group provided invaluable support, helping her navigate the challenges of raising a child in a new culture.
Parenting and Professional Life: Adapting and Advice
Facing the challenges of raising a child and working in a different culture—including the education of her son, whose father is Japanese—and the language barrier at work, Eni chose to take the path she did. She decided to raise her son to fully embrace the Japanese language and culture, a choice she now says she has no regrets about.
For those considering employment in Kyoto, Eni offers this advice:
“It’s really important to check if your skills, especially how well you communicate and understand Japanese work customs, match what the job needs. When I was working in the archaeological field, I did not have sufficient skills in writing reports in Japanese, so I could not perform as well as I would have liked.”
Eni looks forward to making Kyoto her permanent home, saying she has “fallen in love” with the city. She also believes Kyoto will be further enriched by the diverse perspectives of various people, including foreigners.
Kyoto’s Deeper Meaning: Advice for Newcomers
You cannot fully understand Kyoto just by visiting. Eni discusses what it means to live in Kyoto and explores the deeper meanings behind traditions like the Gion Festival and the Gozan Bonfires.
“Kyoto is a place where culture is woven into everyday life,” she explains. “I always recommend joining in festivals like the Gion Matsuri. It’s a fantastic way to experience the city’s spirit firsthand. And take the time to understand the true meaning behind traditions like the Gozan Bonfires and Obon.”
“It’s not just about seeing the sights, but understanding the deeper meaning behind them,” she clarifies, pointing to the respect for ancestors and the strong family ties these traditions represent. Eni believes this side of the city that places such importance on human relations, regardless of religion, is what truly sets Kyoto apart.
Eni’s time in Kyoto tells a powerful story of adapting to a new environment, staying strong, and building deep connections. Her experiences show us that to truly live in a different culture, one must engage in its daily life, understand its depth, and actively participate in its community. This depth and sense of community are precisely why individuals like Eni choose to call Kyoto home.
